2004 - Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille, Pieve Santa Restituta (Gaja)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille mesmerizes as it envelops the senses with a seductive bouquet of red plums, dusty cedar spice box, incense and cloves. It opens with a pretty inner sweetness yet quickly takes form as crisp red berry fruits flow across silken textures, contrasted by hints of tart citrus and saline mineral tones that add a crunchy sensation toward the close. This finishes remarkably fresh, perfumed and almost zesty in character, with a tinge of sour cherry that keeps the mouth salivating. The slightest tug of fine tannins lingers on. While both came direct from the winery, the bottle I tasted in 2021 was nowhere near as fresh and energetic as today’s specimen. This is a fantastic showing.